South Stack is one of Wales' most visited and spectacular
lighthouses, it's located about 2-3 miles west of Holyhead, on a
tiny islet just off Holy Island on the North West tip of
Anglesey.
South Stack has been a warning beacon for passing ships since
it's construction over 200 years ago, cautioning them of the deadly
rocks below. The lighthouse helps guide shipping in the busy
channel into the Mersey, and is a waymark for local seafarers, as
well as for coastal traffic crossing the Irish Sea to and from the
ports of Holyhead, Dublin and Dun Laoghaire.
As children a visit to the lighthouse was a beloved day-out, and
known to us all as an 'MMT' (Magical Mystery Tour)! Whenever dad
shouted-out that he was taking us on an MMT we were delighted,
although not in the slightest bit surprised to end up at South
Stack! It's still a place we love to go today, and the magic has
never worn off. If not your personal No 1 Anglesey adventure, it's
GOT to be in your top 5! Nowadays it offers even more than it once
did - and a lot of that has to do with the RSPB's presence
there.
The South Stack Lighthouse was built by Trinity House; a charity
dedicated to safeguarding shipping and seafarers. The Corporation
of Trinity House has a long and illustrious history in the service
of mariners. Nowadays it also provides education, as well as
support and welfare, to the UK's seafaring community. They have a
statutory duty, as a General Lighthouse Authority, "to deliver a
reliable, efficient and cost-effective aids to navigational
services for the benefit and safety of all mariners". The safety of
shipping, and the wellbeing of seafarers, have been the prime
concerns of Trinity House since being incorporated (by Royal
Charter) by Henry VIII on the 20th of May, 1514.
Watch your step!
Nowadays the islet, separated from Holy Island Island by 30
metres of often turbulent seas and treacherous rocks, is reachable
via a footbridge...oh and the 400 steps you need to climb down to
get to there! However, this was not always the case. The
coastline in this area, from the breakwater in Holyhead, around to
the South-western shore, is made-up of large granite cliffs, with
sheer drops of up to 60 metres, and fierce tide-races below!
Although the lighthouse's construction was completed in 1809, it
was first envisaged in 1665, when a petition for a patent to build
a lighthouse on the spot was presented to Charles II. The patent
wasn't immediately granted though, and not until the 9th of
February, 1809, did the first light appear to mark this rocky
little island out as the lighthouse's setting. Not until 1828,
eight years after the lighthouse was finished, was a bridge
added!
Trinity House employee, Daniel Alexander, was the main surveyor
and architect. Originally he had it fitted with Argand oil lamps
and reflectors. Yet, in about 1840, a small railtrack was installed
in order that a lantern, with an additional light, could be lowered
down the cliff, to sea level, when fog had concealed the main beam
above.
In his capacity as surveyor, Alexander built a number of
lighthouses, including, the High Lighthouse at Harwich in 1818, and
others at, Farne and Lundy Islands. His first major work was
the improvement of the medieval bridge at Rochester. He was also
the principal architect of Dartmoor and Maidstone Prisons, two of
the oldest goals still in use. In 1799 he carried out a detailed
survey of Rochester Cathedral, and recommended a programme of
repairs. Alexander was also a surveyor with the London Dock
Company, between 1796 and 183, and was responsible for all the
buildings there during that time. Other works include Mote House
near Maidstone, built in the 1790s, repairs to Coley
House near Reading, as well as extensions to Inigo Jones' Queen's House (then the Royal
Naval Asylum) in Greenwich, London.
Let there be Light
In the mid 1870s the lighthouse's lantern and lighting apparatus
were replaced by newer machinery. Then, in 1909 (100 years after
its construction) an early form of incandescent light was
installed. This was replaced in 1927, by a more modern form of
incandescent 'mantle burner'. The Lighthouse was properly
electrified in 1938. It wasn't until 1983 that the lighthouse was
automated, meaning that the last lighthouse keepers were withdrawn
from the site. A necessary, yet somber day. From then on the
lighthouse was, and still is, monitored and controlled
automatically, from Trinity House's Planning Centre in Harwich,
Essex.
In 1983 the footbridge ,sadly, had to be closed to the public,
due to safety reasons - which I remember! However, in 1998 a
new aluminium bridge was built, and once again the island was
opened to the public; this is the bridge we can all still cross
today. Until 1828, before the footbridge was added, the only means
of crossing the deep-water channel to the island was via a wicker
basket... suspended on a hempen cable! Yes, they had to brave the
swirling seas below them in nothing more than a hamper-like
container on a rope! Now, if you've ever walked across the
footbridge, you'll know what a terrifying prospect that must have
been - although I imagine those who did it were far braver than me!
In 1859, during the horrendous storm that wrecked the 'Royal
Charter' off Moelfre (some say it should be classed as a
hurricane), one of the keepers was fatally hit on the head by a
falling rock as he came on duty. Many of the keepers lived here
with their families; I can only imagine what a panic the poor
mother must have constantly been in, trying to keep tabs on the
children! If you go on the 'Lighthouse Tour' you'll hear more about
the domestic side of things on the islet - so, as I don't want to
spoil things, i'll leave it at that for now!
South Stack Lighthouse Facts
- Height of Tower - 28 m/91 ft
- Height of light above Mean High Water- 60 m
- Automated - 1983
- Electrified - 1938
- Intensity - 467,000 candela
- Range of light - 28 NM
Today's Lighthouse
With it's breathtaking views, and opportunities to see a
plethora of seabirds, South Stack Lighthouse now welcomes thousands
of visitors every year. Tickets can be purchased in the RSPB South
Stack shop, next to the cafe, where there's a large car park. The
cost is £5.80. Guided tours of the lighthouse are also available at
certain times. The tour includes a visit to the engine room and
exhibition area, before being able to climb up the spiral staircase
to the top of the lighthouse! Tours of the South Stack Lighthouse
are organised by the Isle of Anglesey County Council, under licence
from the Corporation of Trinity House, with the RSPB selling
tickets on the council's behalf. Take note, the bridge is closed
every Friday.
As weather conditions can be variable, sometimes restricting
access to the island, it's a good idea, in order avoid
disappointment, to telephone or check the website before you visit.
NB Don't forget to buy your tickets at the top BEFORE walking down
the steps! Open from 10.30am until 5pm, with the last ticket sold
at 4pm, and last entry at 4.30pm. You're advised to wear flat
shoes, but not flipflops. Lighthouse Tours can cater for groups of
up to 20 only. Be aware that at busy times there may be a delay of
up to an hour. Also, there are no toilets on the island - and no
dogs allowed either. Children are very welcome, but must be at
least 1.1m in height. All visitors (including children) must be
able to ascend and descend the stairs unaided.
Make a day of it
Other facilities in the immediate area include
an RSPB visitor and information centre,
including a cafe, picnic area, toilets, a viewing 'tower' with
telescopes and binoculars etc, and guided walks. A full programme
of educational, conservation and active pursuits are also available
throughout the year - all organised by the RSPB. All profits go
towards the cause.
The viewing part of the visitor's centre is
called Elin's Tower. Elin's Tower (Tŵr Elin)
is a squat, castellated building located only a short
walk from the parking area and cafe/shop. Built between 1820 and
1850 by the local, and well known Stanley family from Penrhos, it was originally used as a summer house. Today it affords fabulous views
of the surrounding cliffs and lighthouse. It's open daily from 10
am to 5 pm, from Easter to September, with free entry. Right on the
cliff-edge, it's an amazing place to watch thousands of breeding
seabirds! Here you can watch the gulls, choughs, fulmars, peregrine
falcons, guillemots, puffins and razorbills (to name but a few) at
your leisure, and can even view live action, via CCTV, of nesting
birds on the cliffs. Between May and June is the best time to
visit, when thousands of romantically-minded feathered couples
congregate to mate and nest here! There is disabled and pushchair
access to Elin's Tower.
As stated before, there are over 400 stone steps down to the
lighthouse island (not 365, as local legend would have it), and as
you take each one, you can't help being moved by the awe-inspiring
scenery and geology! If you visit during the Spring and Summer
months, you'll also be able to enjoy the vast areas of headland,
heathland and hilly interior that this part of the island has to
offer, in all their glory. They become a riot of colour, with
coconut-scented yellow gorse, bright-purple heather, and other
glorious wildflowers that will, quite literally, wow you! Look
closely and you might even see a basking adder, rabbits and hares
running free, or beguiling butterflies! Look out to sea you may
catch a glimpe frolocking seals, or the pods of porpoises and
dolphins that often perform below!
Numerous footpaths lead into this bracken-covered, wonderland.
Why not hike 700ft to the top of Holyhead
Mountain (Mynydd Twr), which takes about 45 minutes?
If you don't have quite enough energy for this, a short stroll
along a path that's opposite the car park will take you to an
ancient settlement of stone roundhouses. The Anglesey Coastal Path passes
South Stack, as does the Cybi Circular Walk.
The latter has both long and short variants; the shorter walk is 4
miles long and takes about two hours to complete. Sites along the
way, as well as those mentioned previously, include the North Stack
Fog Signal station, and Holyhead's Breakwater Park.
Follow the light!
On Anglesey, take the A55 dual carriageway from Bangor to
Holyhead and then follow signs to Holyhead Town Centre, from where
the lighthouse and RSPB reserve are signposted. You can also get
there from Trearddur Bay - by following the coastal road
around the bay towards Porth Dafarch and Porth-y-post, then heading
North/NW.
South Stack, Nr Holyhead, LL65 1YH
Telephone: 01407 762100
Email: south.stack@rspb.org.uk
Website: www.rspb.org.uk
NB although the council has a website dedicated to the South
Stack, it's never very up-to-date. Therefore, I always check the
RSPB South Stack Cliffs website for more accurate information!