Bardsey Island, also known as the legendary island of 20,000
saints, is a place I had been longing to visit for many years. We
set off from Porth Meudwy early in the morning with local expert
Colin Evans, who was brought up on this strange and mystical Island
- the mist was still hovering over the cliffs. A short and slightly
uneasy boat ride for me over the infamous 'Bardsey sound' (the
stretch of water between the tip of the Llyn Peninsula and Bardsey
Island) as Colin stopped the boat in the swell and allowed the boat
to spin around freely with the curling tide, exciting for some with
stronger sea legs than me. It gave me a glimpse of what the
sailors would've experienced when they tried to cross the 'sound'
in their sailing vessels, with many known to have been caught in
the current and shipwrecked on the rocks. Dozens of ships were lost
in the 'Bardsey sound' resulting in the lighthouse being built in
1820 (the lighthouse was electrified in 1965).
We landed on the island some 30 minutes after setting off from
Aberdaron and my first impression was the peace and tranquillity
that this very special island has to offer; no wonder the monks
made it their home all those years ago. Today there are only a
handful of families living on the island and our first stop up the
track was coffee and cake in the little "cafe" which was in fact a
picnic table off a track! It was really at this point that I
understood the magic of this blessed island with its strong
religious background.
After coffee we strolled up the only track which led us up
through the island, past a few farms and holiday cottages (yes you
can actually stay on the island!) the old school, to the ruins of
the old monastery and the church which is still used today. It was
a windy day but dry, sunny and pleasant so we found a spot next to
a dry stone wall and ate our packed lunch embracing the spirit of
this wild remote island. The landscape is fairly barren with only a
few cows and sheep roaming the wild hills and the gulls crying
overhead; it was hard not to feel at ease and totally absorbed into
the heart of this beautiful place.
After lunch we walked back down to the lighthouse and explored
the tiny beaches and rocky coves on this side of the island. Whilst
sitting on the rocks I noticed a swirl in the sea in front and on
closer inspection noticed the seals! Dozens were in the water and
basking on the rocks, playing and even at times fighting to protect
their offspring. These, I found out later, were Atlantic grey seals
and there are in fact about 200 living and breeding around the
island. As I watched, one or two swam towards me and came so close
I could touch them, an experience I have never encountered before
and one I will certainly never forget. The sea was literally alive
with seals! The trust that these beautiful creatures showed was
just another example of the special gift that this island had to
offer.
